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Dontronics Home Page DT001 Rev. C Parts and Assembly.
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Using PIC16F627/628 with the DT001 board.

The Real Hardware Assembly Instructions Start by clicking here:

Click here for http://www.ic-prog.com settings for DT001

The same questions are asked over and over, so this little list has been put together at the head of this file in an attempt to stop these questions. This project doesn't take any great electronic knowledge or soldering skills to put together, but we don't recommend you take it on as a first project. The rush of people wanting to burn Sony Playstation chips with little or no knowledge of electronics or have no soldering experience, should be looking for an alternative assembled and tested unit. Having said that, we believe this is a great kit for the programming of  PICmicro chips and development using the Simmstick platform, and we now have thousands of satisfied users to prove it..

Please Note **** If you are building the DT001 just as a programmer, you don't need everything installed. In fact, if you install the MAX-232 chip and the associated LEDs, the programmer section may not work at all, as this is a development platform and has many features.

Q: Having assembled DT001 & DT101 programer kit and tested, I am confused about green tx led being on always when powered up, is this normal?
A: If you install the parts required for RS-232 comms, then yes it is.

Q: Will the DT001 Board program a PIC16F84 chip?
A: Yes, I have gone out of my way to get drivers written in DOS, Windows and NT to do just this, thanks to Nigel Goodwin and others. I haven't purchased a PIC16C84 for a very long time now, and you may have trouble actually getting one. Programming differences are minor.

Q: Do I have to do any link changes on the DT001 board to program an 84 chip?
A: No.

There is a Chat group for Simmstick. I strongly suggest you "JOIN" the group and send any questions there if you are having problems. Thousands of people have now built DT001 and have it running.

I'll repeat that again.
There is a Chat group for Simmstick. I strongly suggest you "JOIN" the group and send any questions there if you are having problems. Thousands of people have now built DT001 and have it running.

You still having problems getting your DT001 to work?

Real Instructions Start here.

Please Note**** DT001 REV C boards supplied from Dontronics after the 15-Dec-99 have the 4 tracks connected on the solder side of the programming socket for the 508/509 type chip. Insert pin 1 of the 508/509 into pin 1 of the socket.

Full Parts list:
Assembly Instructions:
Jumpers and Jumper Options:
Programmer Software:
Walking LED test file:
Linux PIC programmers and the DT-001
Power up and Testing the Programmer:
Configuring your SimmStickTM
User Feedback
Beginners advice from Dr. Paul.

You can download the Schematic in PDF format from
You can download the Overlay in PDF format from

The DT001 programmer hardware settings are on the P16PRO page, and the PICALLW software has the settings "DT001" on the hardware settings page, which you must go through to set any programmer up before it will work.

International Values:
It is hard to please everyone when it comes to International standards, as in many cases, there isn't one.
Where you see a resistor with a value of 4K7, this means 4.7K, or 4 thousand 7 hundred ohms.

DT001 SimmStickTM Motherboard, Power Supply and Programmer.

POWER Input Components, and Programmer Voltage:
Main Board Components:
Programmer Parts:
And if you wish to connect to a target board with a matching 10 pin header:
RESET and BOOT Switches:
SimmStickTM Bus Expansion. J3
Dontronics Relay Bus:
Serial Communications:
Jumpers and Jumper Options:
SimmStickTM Bus

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POWER Input Components, and Programmer Voltage:
Plug-pack (Wall Wart) 9 to 12 volts AC or DC at 100ma to 300ma. The current required to run a minimal DT001 board is very small. Larger configurations will require larger capacity power supplies.

If you wish to use the board as a Cheap PIC Programmer, then the 13V VPP needs to be generated by supplying enough voltage to drive the VPP circuit.

This means using an input voltage of around 16V DC or 12 V AC. If a 9 to 12 V DC Plug Pack is used, it can be wired up in conjunction with a 9V Battery to generate the +13V VPP programming voltage. Two batteries could be wired together for a portable unit.

Don't go too high with the input voltage as you may go over the 7805 specs and heat up the device to destruction. I would suggest that 18 Volts is as far as you should go. Provision for a heat sink is made on the board at the 7805 location.

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Main Board Components:

1 by DT001 PCB DT

1 by 7805 +5 Voltage regulator in TO-220 case.

1 by Suitable heat sink for above Regulator.

1 by Diode Bridge D1 WO2 (or WO4 type)

2 by 1N4004 Diodes. D1 and D2. For 13V VPP.

1 by 2.1mm DC Input plug. PCB mount.

Provision is also made for screw terminals at .2" centers.
1 by Capacitor C1 1000uf Electrolytic @25 Volts. (PCB type mount.)

Provision is made to fit larger caps if required. This can be caps

with .3", .4", or .5" centers, or 1000uf, 2200uf or 4700uf.
1 by Capacitor C2 .01uf (or .1uf) Ceramic

1 by Capacitor C3 .01uf (or .1uf) Ceramic

1 by Capacitor C4 10uf Electrolytic (PCB mount.) or Tant. @16 V.

1 by Capacitor C6 .01uf (or .1uf) Ceramic

1 by Capacitor C7 .01uf (or .1uf) Ceramic

1 by Resistor R1 1K8 .25 watt Red LED 1 (PWR.. Overlay Shows 4K7)

1 by Resistor R2 330 .25 watt Green LED 2 (+5V)

1 by 5mm Red LED. LED 1 PWR monitor

1 by 5mm Green LED. LED 2 +5V monitor

4 by 12mm square .5" stick on rubber feet. Adds a nice finish.

2 by 1N4148 Small Signal Diodes. D3 and D4. Used for Basic Stamp Comms.
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Programmer Parts:
1 by E1           7407

1 by 78L12        +12 Voltage regulator in TO-92 case.

1 by Capacitor    C5  10uf Electrolytic (PCB mount.) or Tant. @25 V.

1 by RN1 10K resistor network. 6 pin device, 1 common pin. Extra holes

  so that a 7 or 8 pin device can be fitted.             (6P5R-10K)

1 by Resistor     R3  4K7  .25 watt Red LED 3 (VPP On)

1 by Resistor     R4  1K8  .25 watt Green LED 4 (VDD On)

1 by Resistor     R5  100K .25 watt Q2 cct.

1 by Resistor     R6  100K .25 watt Q1 cct.

1 by Resistor     R7  10K  .25 watt Q1 cct.

1 by Resistor     R8  10K  .25 watt Q2 cct.

1 by Resistor     R9  100  .25 watt Q2 cct.

1 by Resistor     R10 10K  .25 watt Clock Pullup.

1 by Resistor     R11 10K  .25 watt Data Pullup.

1 by Resistor     R16 1K   .25 watt VPP Pulldown.

1 by 5mm Red LED.   LED 3 VPP monitor

1 by 5mm Green LED. LED 4 VDD monitor

1 by 4 Pole Double Throw (4PDT) Switch. Run/Load

1 by DB-25 Male right angle PCB mount connector.

2 by Transistors  Q1 & Q2  BC558 Any PNP Small Signal Amps will do.

US Transistor types 2N4403 can be used, but you will need to position the

devices at 180 degrees to the overlay as shown. This means the flat side of

transistors Q1 and Q2 will both be facing towards the 78L12 regulator.

It also means you will have to bend the center leg slightly in the opposite


1 by 10 pin IDC type Male header. (2 by 5 pins) J1 Program Header.
(Optional, for target boards with matching headers.)

1 by 18 pin ZIF or Machine Pin Socket. (Optional)

NOTE **** If you choose not to use a ZIF socket in the on-board position, at least make sure you install a reasonable quality machine pin socket into this position. Instructions can be found on how to fit a ZIF socket in the Dontronics Hardware Hints file at:

18 pin ZIF sockets are very hard to find. TEXTOOLS (green) have an 18 pin ZIF, but the local importers require a minimum order of ten before they will import them, so these are flown in, but normally they are in stock at all times.

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And if you wish to connect to a target board with a matching 10 pin header:

1 by 6 inches of 10 wire flat ribbon cable with two 10 pin IDC crimp headers, one crimped each end. No, you can't buy it. You will need to make this cable up and crimp it yourself. A small vice works nicely for crimping these IDC connectors. If you can't find headers as small as 10 pin, you may have to use a larger size. These can often be easily cut down, or simply placed pin 1 to pin 1 on the existing headers.

Pair of Female 10 pin IDC crimp headers. (To suit the above)

Three feet of DB-25M to DB-25F printer port cable works fine. Yes, it's pin for pin, so an off the shelf fully wired cable will do. Or you can crimp your own. I think a foot to 18 inches will do for this job.

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RESET and BOOT Switches:
A Reset can be added for CPU control, and I have also included a "BOOT" switch on the SDA signal. If a pull-up resistor is fitted on a SimmStickTM module, then this line can be used as a single line switch input. I added it mainly for FED Basic "COMMS" control, and suggest it not be fitted for most installations as a high hat key type button may interfere with some SimmStick modules. If you chose to fit one, it may pay to get a low profile type.

1 by Resistor     R14 330  .25 watt Boot Button.

1 by Resistor     R15 330  .25 watt Reset Button.

2 by Suitable switches.

These can be the pretty plastic color ones that have .2" centers, or

the mini 4 pin TACT switches that have a .2" by .3" pattern.
The smaller 2 pin device can also be used, however as the board artwork connects to only diagonal pads, a short jumper would need to be done to each switch on the solder side of the board.

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SimmStickTM Bus Expansion. J3
1 by 30 Pin single row right angle Female connector for Motherboard.
1 by 30 Pin single row right angle Male connector for expansion board.
Straight Pins are also available from Dontronics and their Dealers.

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Dontronics Relay Bus:
1 by 34 pin IDC type Male header. (2 by 17 pins) J2
Mates with the Dontronics Relay Board.

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Serial Communications:

1 by Resistor     R12  1K  .25 watt for RX monitor LEDs.

1 by Resistor     R13  1K  .25 watt for TX monitor LEDs.

1 by Resistor     R17  2K2 .25 watt for BS-2 Comms Config.

1 by 5mm Red LED.   LED 5 RX Plus monitor

1 by 5mm Green LED. LED 6 RX Minus monitor

1 by 5mm Red LED.   LED 7 TX Plus monitor

1 by 5mm Green LED. LED 8 TX Minus monitor

1 by MAX-232 E2 (or equivalent)

4 by 1uf Electrolytic or Tantalum Caps for Max-232. C8 to C11.

1 by DB-9 right angle PCB mount connector.
It may also pay to install a 16 pin socket for the Max-232, as you may have to remove it for some configurations.

Please Note **** If you are building the DT001 just as a programmer, you don't need everything installed. In fact, if you install the MAX-232 chip, the programmer section may not work at all, as this is a development platform and has many features.

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Parts Confusion:
Result of User Feedback 2-Sep-98
The 4PDT switch doesn't have a pin 1 marked on it. Pin 1 was designated so that the schematic makes sense with the overlay. You can solder the switch in either of the two ways it will fit as the center position is the common.
The Hat key type switches and the small tactile switches designed to fit the Reset and Boot positions also can be soldered in either way they will fit as the board artwork is connected to opposite corners of the switches. Unless there is a switch type that I am unaware of, the corners always make the connection correctly.
The correct Heat Sink type will fit the board, but it will have a portion of it hanging over the edge. This shouldn't be a problem unless you want to mount the whole thing in a case. I really don't think this is an end user product that requires the heat sink to fit within the boundaries of the board. if it is, then you will need to manufacture a suitable heat sink to allow heat dissipation and fit that special case.

Jumpers and Jumper Options
All Jumper positions are default set to the most common configurations. If there is a requirement to alter these settings, you may need to cut a track on the solder side ot the board, and install a strip of 2 or 3 pin male header pins, and test (or jumper) links.

There is one jumper on the component side of the board at J12. Don't ever cut this. I would have liked to put all possible track cuts on the component side of the board but decided it was safer on the solder side. This way, no one would solder in headers and then be unable to cut the tracks.

J1 to J3 are I/O (input/output) connection points for expansion of signals from the DT.001 PCB to other boards and devices.

J1      10 pin programming Header for connection to suitably designed

        target board such as the Dontronics PIGMY board.

J2      34 pin Port B and C header. Matches the Dontronics Relay board


J3      30 pin Simm Bus expansion. Standard procedure is to solder a

        30 pin right angle female header socket to this.

J4      Alternative connection points for normally un-used RS-232

        input and output. The 'IN' portion signal (not the header pin)

        is used for BS-2 comms.

J5      Normal: Leave pins 1 and 2 connected together.

        BS-2:   Cut the track between pin 1 and 2 on the solder side

                of the board. Install a 3 pin male header. Put a test

                link between pins 2 and 3.

J6      Normal: Leave pins 1 and 2 isolated.

        BS-2:   Install a 2 pin header and jumper link. This signal

                can be used to remotely reset the CPU device via an

                RS-232 input line. Used in conjunction with J11.

J7      Connects the D-9 pins 6 and 7 together for BS-2 operation.

        Can be a set of 2 header pins and a link as before, as it may

        need to be removed.

J8      Shorts out R15 (330) as some brown out circuits may need a more

        direct pulldown to ground.

J9      Carries RX or Serial In to SI on SimmStick Bus via pins 2 and 3.

        An alternative path can be provided via pin 1 to D0 of the Simm Bus.

        Again, isolation by track cutting and header pins needs to be done.

J10     Same as for J9 but carries TX and alternative path is to D1.

J11     Connects pin 4 of the D-9 connector to reset in for BS-2 operation.

J12     Used for BS-1 operation. The track this time is on the component

        side of the board, and no track cut is required.

        Normal operation: Link on pins 2 and 3.

        BS-1:             Link 1 and 2 together.

J13     Used for BS-1 operation. The track cut is on the solder

        side of the board.

        Normal operation: Link on pins 2 and 3.

        BS-1:             Link 1 and 2 together.

J14     For BS-1 operation. Cut the tack on the solder side of the board.

        Install a 2 pin male header and a link to restore to normal

        operation. This isolates the pullup resistor and the 7407 input


J15     A 26 pin male header position has been added. This is pin

        compatible with the Dontronics PIGMY board MAD Bus header.

        Gives the ability to extend the full Micro signals on a 26 wire

        flat ribbon cable and crimp connectors. The PWR, +5V, and GND

        dual posts near J3 were removed (Rev B) to make room for J15.
Jumpers Explanation and Summary:
J1, J2, and J3 are used for Input and Output connections to other boards or devices.

J4 is used for In-Circuit programming to a suitable target board.

J5, J6, J7, and J11 re-configure the RS-232 circuitry for Basic Stamp II operation.

J8 shorts out the Reset Resistor to zero ohms.

J9 and J10 offer an alternative connection to the SimmStick bus for the main RS-232 signals. This may suit Basic Stamp I users that require RS-232 on pins 1 to 8. (Port B).

J12, J13, and J14 allow BS I users to program their Stamp via the DT.001 board and the standard DB25 printer port cable.

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SimmStickTM Bus
A variety of options here. You can use single or dual 30 Pin Simm Sockets. These can be placed at intervals required by the user. The PCB holes are placed at .15" centers, and standard Simm Sockets are made for .3" centers, so many different layout patterns can be utilized.

If you needed two sockets that were an inch apart because of a ZIF socket or other board options that increase the height of the SimmStick, then .9" or 1.05" spaced selections can be made.

A combination of Vertical, 27 degree, and Horizontal sockets may make for interesting combinations.

You don't need sockets either. A row of female pins could be added so that SimmSticks with male pins fitted, could be plugged into the female pin headers.

For the full population of this area in the conventional manner, you

will need:

4 by Dual 30 pin Simm Sockets (Vertical) with .3" centers.
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DT001 Assembly:

Full Hardware assembly instructions for the DT001 SimmStickTM Cheap Programmer, power supply, and development board.

Novice Explanation...
All soldering is done on the solder side of the board. All components are fitted from the component side of the board. If you have trouble understanding this, you may need assistance to assemble this board. I am very happy to assist in an E-mail message if I can, but I can't build or fault find to any great degree via an E-mail message.
End Of Novice Section...

This board has many features and functions and you may choose to add only the components required for your final project.

The parts list has additional comments added, so read through it in conjunction with these assembly instructions.

The text Overlay on the component side of the board makes it very simple to assemble the DT001 board.

I advise you to install all components starting with the lowest profile (height) first. I.E.: All resistors first. If you were to solder in the Connectors or 4PDT switch first, you will find it awkward to then fit the smaller items easily.

For 'All' installations, solder in the full list of components as given in the Main Board Components: list.

Watch out for the polarity of the Electrolytic Capacitors. These must be soldered into the board the correct way around. The positive end of the Caps is shown on the circuit and board overlay.

When you solder in your 7805 regulator, it can be soldered in allowing for a bolt and/or heat sink to be fitted at this position. Even if you don't install a heat sink now, you may need one later on. I bolted a heat sink to mine, soldered it in position, then removed it. A standard small heat sink can be used. Just make sure you mount it with the bulk of it over hanging the side of the board.

Install your LEDs with the cathodes as shown on the overlay. (Cathodes to the bottom of the board). The cathode end is also found by the flat spot on the side of the case, and also it's the shortest leg.

Programmer Parts

If you are using the boards as a programmer, solder in the full list of components as given in the Programmer Parts list.

If you are programming only SimmSticks, then you don't need the 18 pin ZIF socket or 10 pin header J1.

The ZIF socket programs a suitable DIP device directly in the socket.
The Dontronics Hardware Hints file at:
http://www.dontronics.com/hints.html will show you how to use a machine pin socket, then add a ZIF socket later on.

The 10 pin header is used to program a target board that has a matching 10 pin header. This 10 pin header is the Dr. Russ Reiss pinout.

Provision is made for Reset and Boot Switches. The Reset will reset any CPU connected to pin 8 of the SimmStickTM bus.

The Boot switch is my version of Robin Abbott's Boot link which I found rather awkward. This is connected to pin 11 of the SimmStickTM bus.

Both these switches connect to ground via 330 ohm resistors.

Most of the other components require no real explanation, so here is a quick rundown on the remaining board options.

SimmStickTM Bus.
Slot 1 is switched via the 4PDT switch, and acts as a program/run switch for slot 1 only. Jumpers can be used to disable this feature. Dual connectors at .3" centers or single 30 pin Simm Sockets can be fitted to the board at user selected spaces. Female 30 pin headers can also be installed. These should be available from all SimmStickTM Distributors.

 Slot 1 is now the only programming slot. Was slots 1 and 2 on previous version boards. Did this to avoid confusion. Also if a 30 pin female programming header is required, this can be done with the DT204 board.

SimmStickTM Bus Expansion.
J3 is provided to allow the main bus signals to be extended to other outboard circuits using male and female pin headers.

Dontronics Relay Bus:
This mates with my Relay board and is a 34 pin (2 by 17) male header block. Can be used for other board interconnections.

Serial Communications
A complete RS-232 to TTL converter, DB-9 connector, and status monitor. This connects to the Serial In and Serial Out pins of the bus. Two spare gates are available for additional handshaking if required.

Watch out for the polarity of the Electrolytic Capacitors. These must be soldered into the board the correct way around. The positive end of the Caps is shown on the circuit and board overlay.

Additional PWR, +5V and GND Posts.
We have added two single grounds posts, one power and one +5V post for connection to a CRO or any other test gear. You may choose to solder a wire loop into these positions. Two can be found at each end of the DB-25 connector, and two up the Bus expansion end of the board.

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Programmer Software:

DT001 Board Programs many devices now. See the Dontronics  Links page for alternative sources of programming software. Nigel Goodwin's software for the F84 can be found on the Dontronics Free Files page. Nigel's software programs the PIC16C84 and PIC16F84 under DOS, Windows 95 and NT. This software has been tried and proven on the DT001 board.

Dontronics Home Page.P16PRO Software Registration:
You can Register P16PRO PICmicro software at Dontronics "on-line", using our web based secure Credit Card system for $20USD. The P16PRO software will work under DOS, W3.1 or W9x.
This software will allow you to use most "David Tait" variant programmers including the DT001, to program a very large number of PICmicro devices via the Parallel Printer Port of a PC. Follow the registration link to read the full story.

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Power up and Testing the Programmer:

Before you power up, check with your multi-meter (on ohms) that ground and +5 volts are not shorted together on the printed circuit board.

A word to the wise!!!

When you build a device to plug onto the rear end of a computer system, there is always the possibility of electronic damage to the computer. Weird ground feed-back from an unknown bench power supply may be just what is required to blow the interface chips in your printer card.

If you are like me and run from Notebook computers, you can't go blowing up internal circuitry, so my advice to you, is to test the Programmer section using two 9 Volt batteries in series to produce 18 Volts, and suitable battery clips as a power supply.

This minimizes the possibility of any power supply problems. If you have your printer port logic included on your motherboard, you can always use a cheap printer card set to LPT2: for initial testing.

I can't (and won't) be held responsible for your power supply. If you prove that your programmer works using batteries first, you are well on the way to a successful project.

Connect up your power-pack, transformer, or 2 by +9 Volt Batteries to the main input terminals. As the circuit has a diode bridge at the input, it doesn't matter which way around you connect the positive and negative terminals.

Power up the unit and check that the +5 Volts is there before proceeding. This is verified by the Power LED being on. Check the volts with your multi-meter. This should read from about 4.8 to 5.1 Volts. That's what you get on 7805 regulators now days. Usually around 4.8 Volts with no load.

Check your PWR voltage. This will show up on the Power LED and should be about 15 plus volts which should be able to generate +13V at the output of the 78L12 Voltage regulator.

The Nigel software has a test function that will allow you to test the LEDs and check the voltages before burning a PIC device.


Connect the programmer to an MS-DOS printer port using a DB-25 Male to Female standard extension cable, and power the unit up. Put a PIC16C84 into your target socket and try burning the 84 test file.

Use the instructions provided with each software package to program the WL84.HEX file into a PIC16F84. (or C84)
The walking LED program simply displays each LED switch on in turn at 1 second intervals on Port B. You will need to connect up some status LEDs on Port B of your target board to monitor the operation of the walking LED program.

This can be done with a Relay board connected to the DT001 board. The walking LED will be seen on the Relay driver LED's.


The programming/Run operation goes like this:

(1)     PROGRAM MODE:           Switch 1 to Program.

                                Burn (or Program) Target Device.

(2)     RUN MODE:               Switch 1 to Run.

                                Program auto-runs in Target system.

(3)     RETURN TO PROGRAM:      Switch 1 to Program.

                                Burn (or Program) Target Device.
Yes, step (1) and (3) are the same. This simple cycle continues.


When the device is powered up and the Software is run with the appropriate command ,the PWR and the +5V power monitor LED's should be on, and the VPP and VDD LED's off. During the initial 'RUN' of the program, the green LED will switch on for a short time.

Before inserting an 84, you can do a few tests.

Try the Nigel program. Even without the VPP voltage connected, the program should test your board and report the printer port to be used in the top right hand corner of the screen. This should say 278, 378 or 3BC. This is the hex value of the printer port detected.

The command line for this is: PICPROG (the file name varies with Versions, and windows will be different of course)

You should have the Program/Run switch in the correct position. This socket could be the ZIF (or Machine pin) socket on board the programmer, a socket on a SimmSocketTM, or suitable Target board.
Here is wl84.hex which is a test file provided for a trial burn.








The command line for this is: PICPROG WL84.HEX

Put your 84 into the socket and try this command. During the burn phase, the VPP and VDD LED's will turn on, do a little flashing, then turn off when the device is programmed.

The program will tell you if the device has been programmed correctly or not, after verifying the device.

When the device is programmed correctly, set Switch 1 to Run mode. You should be running your program.

The WL84.HEX file is my walking LED program. This is a simple little program that blinks LEDs connected to Port B and Port A bits 2 and 3 of an 84.

Port A produces a binary count, and port B walks a LED from LSB to MSB at 1 second intervals.

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User Feedback:

One user reported that he had to install a 10K pullup resistor between +5Volts and the non grounded side of the reset button before he could program an 84 in the DT001 on board socket.
If you have a SimmStick installed and are programming the device in the SimmStick, you should have a pullup resistor installed already.

Here is a small sample of messages that I have received and others that are available in the Piclist archives:

Thomas M. Alldread tmaldred@mail.island.net 12-Mar-98

I ran into a conflicting experience with the 470 pF capacitor recommendation.

I use a Pentium 133 MHz and I have home built a DT001 plug in programmer SIMM board with a 40 pin ZIF socket intended for programming the whole family of PICs. I initially installed the recommended 470 pF caps on the 40 pin ZIF socket and then found the DT001 programmer would no longer read 16C84s even when mounted in the mother board 18 pin ZIF. Removal of the home built simm programmer board brought the programmer back to life.

I subsequently removed the 470 pF caps and the programmer now appears to work OK with the 84s installed in either the 18 or 40 pin sockets. I have not yet confirmed its operation with any other PICs.

It would appear that the caps should only be tried if the programmer does not work without them as in some cases they may cause the circuit to fail.

Subject:      Re: Problems with the ProPic programmer (newbie)
       Date:  Mon, 16 Mar 1998 11:00:38 +0100
      From:   Marco DI LEO m.dileo@SISTINF.IT
   Reply-To:  pic microcontroller discussion list PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
 References:  1

Shahid Sheikh wrote:
> Hi all,
> I just made a propic v4.2 (from TATO Computers) programmer and when I read
> a blank (new) 12C509JW in it, it gives me 3FFF on all the locations. That
> is the same stuff I get if there is no pic on the programmer. The
> programmer seems to be working OK as it turns on and off all the supplies
> to the pic just fine. All my voltage levels are fairly accurate as well
> (VPP1=12.98V, VDDprog=4.97V, VDDmax=5.50V and VDDmin=2.54V).

I got the same problem on that programmer.
The problem I found is on the rising edges of the clock and data lines
used to program the PIC. Watching at them using a scope I saw a 45 deg
slope instead of sharp edge (perhaps may PC is too fast :-). You
should solve the problem REMOVING (or using a lower value) the 470pF
capacitor from RB7 and RB6 to ground or reducing the pull up resistors
to the same lines (R7 & R8). I did the latter (I used 2.2K) and I am
very happy with that programmer.

Try that and let me know. Marco
Marco DI LEO                  email: m.dileo@sistinf.it
Sistemi Informativi S.p.A.    tel:   +39 6 50292 300
V. Elio Vittorini, 129        fax:   +39 6 5015991
I-00144 Roma
Subject:   Non-gated Timer Routine suggestions ?
     Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 00:45:22 +1100
     From: Brett Paulin rando@MIRA.NET
 Reply-To: pic microcontroller discussion list PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU

G'day Pic People,


Also, as a curious side note.. I just completed my first Pic Parallel port based programmer and had all sorts of trouble getting it going, until finally in desperation, I swapped Parallel ports on my PC, and everything worked OK

I'm using the David Tait/Don McKenzie design programmer on LPT2 with the WinPicProg software under windows 95.   Getting program/verify failures all over the place..  I had my printer on LPT1, which is the motherboard LPT port, and the programmer on LPT2 which is a ISA card based on the standard 82C11 chip.. nothing fancy..  The programmer
refused to work on LPT2, even with addresses and all set correctly.. Using the diagnostics in WinPicProg (the manual Vpp/Vdd/Clock/Data activtion buttons) all worked fine, but it wouldn't program.

Put the programmer on LPT1, and it instantly works fine.  But LPT2 is definitely working OK, as the printer is now quite happily working on that port.. Strange..  Any clues people ?   I'd prefer to have the programmer on the card-based port rather than the motherboard based port, as the programmer will be linked to various prototype PCB's, and I'd rather accidentally fry a replaceable $20 card Paralel port than a motherboard parallel port..

Brett Paulin : Trance DJ Spock, Electronic Engineer & Gyrocopter Pilot
For DAT trading, DJ Spock & Techno Magic - http://home.mira.net/~rando
       THINK for yourself, QUESTION Authority   - ICQ Id# 5879520
Subject:   Re: Problems with the ProPic programmer (newbie)
     Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 08:08:01 -0800
     From: john pearson xero@CWIA.COM>
 Reply-To: pic microcontroller discussion list PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU

If I may add: I use a 6' cat-5 cable and rj45 plugs on my Propic, no caps, and no problems on my 133MHz Pentium. I don't know if this helps or I am just lucky. John
Subject:   Re: Problems with the ProPic programmer (newbie)
     Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 09:49:40 -0800
     From: "Randie Ohtsji [4555]" rohtsji@GLENVAN.GLENAYRE.COM
 Reply-To: pic microcontroller discussion list PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU


I too built the propic programmer and also used 2N3904 and 2N3906. I've only tried programming 16C84 and 16F84 .... works great.  I set my VDDmin to 4.5V.

Did you remember to put caps on the RB6 and RB7 lines?
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 23:50:47 -0500
From: Theodore Heeren theo@tampabay.rr.com
To: sisuser@
Subject: Re: DT-001/DT-101 Review


I has been a real pleasure putting this kit together. I got started with PICs by etched my own TOPIC board and have been writing small programs for a year. The DT.001 makes me feel like I'm cheating because everything (so far)
is so easy.

Thanks for a great kit,
Ted Heeren
Linux PIC programmers and the DT-001

Subject: Linux PIC programmers, assemblers, and the DT-001

Date: Tue, 1 Sep 1998

From: james.cameron@digital.com

To: dontronics.com

I have now used picprg and gpasm with 16F84 chips on the DT-001.

picprg was at http://www.tatoosh.com/nexus/picpgmr.shtml

picprg V2.2 worked with the DT-001.  It needed a bit of tweaking to


polarities of output and input lines on the board.  Below is my

~/.picprgrc file that picprg saved after configuration.

# Linux PIC programmer configuration v2.0











gpasm was at http://reality.sgi.com/jamesb/gpasm/

gpasm is still declared as "alpha" quality software, and I've tested on

version 0.0.6.  It is the closest behavioural match to MPASM that I have

found.  I added 12C508 and 12C509 support and the changes have been

merged with the current code base.

I've compared the hex file output from gpasm against MPASM for some of

my projects, and found no differences.

I have used dosemu with MPASM without problems.

Versions of Linux tested include Red Hat 5.0 and Red Hat 5.1.

James Cameron                              (james.cameron@digital.com)

Digital Equipment Corporation (Australia) Pty. Ltd. A.C.N. 000 446 800

Subject: Re: dt001 problem Date: Wed, 19 Aug 1998 11:06:14 -0700 From: bill harrison  Organization: sine robotics To: Don McKenzie dontronics.com Hi,         Well I took a look at the various addresses you gave me, and still didn't find a "definitive" solution.  But I did noticed a lot of traffic on what I class as "communication line capacitance".         I got it working by cutting down my PC-to-DT001 cable to about one foot length.  I was using a cable that was over the recommended 3 feet, but didn't realize why it needed to be short (that it effects the capacitance, and was dependent on the strength of the port driver in the PC).  I simply used the shortest cable at hand, which was longer.  Just taking guesses as to my problem, I, with some cringing, cut off one foot of one end of the cable and soldered on a new connector.         I've used too-long-cables in the past for a verity of things, with success, and I saw posts that 6 foot cables work on the DT001, so it didn't occur to me that that would be a problem.  Perhaps a simple explanation on the variable port driving capability and cabling capacitance in the assembly instructions would help others avoid my mistake.         The clue that led me to this was the post someone did wondering why the DT001 worked on LPT1, but not LPT2,  they probably have different port drive capabilities.  I wondered if my laptop couldn't drive the port strong enough for a longer cable.  It turns out that that was it.         Thanx for the help, great product line (you'll be hearing more of me, as I'd like to incorporate the SimmSticks into my robotics).                 Cheers,        Bill Harrison                                     http://www.sinerobotics.com

You still having problems getting your DT001 to work?
Section Isolate!!!!

You can program an 84 chip in a DT101 board in slot 1 with the switch in the correct position, or you can program it in the ZIF socket position on the DT001 board. The switch isn't used if you have the micro in the ZIF socket position.

Now, can  you program a PIC16F84 on the dt001 board, that is, with no simmstick installed?
To do this, you can solder an 18 pin machine pin socket to the dt001 board to try.
See: hints.html for using machine pin sockets and later conveting to ZIF sockets.

If all of this fails, try another printer port, or another computer system just to make sure of your fault finding. It only takes a blob of  solder or a track fault on the boards to stop it all working.

The Nigel Goodwin program has test features built in also.

Here is one from Nigel now:

>      Prog Data Loaded :  Yes          Hex Data Loaded
>Programming Target 16x8x.
>Programming ...    Writing program data   : 0Programming
>Failed Verify failed!
>Verifying ...      Verifying program data : 0 Program Verify
>Blowing Fuses to 0x0011 ...
>Fuse Failure Config Fuses, verify failed!
>Total time 1.16 secs.

What voltage are you feeding the board with?, and is it remaining high
enough under load - these are the symtoms you get if the voltage is too
low to switch the chip into programming mode.


Subject:              Re: DT001 help
        Date:          Sat, 26 Sep 1998 19:38:51 +1000
       From:          "Paul B. Webster VK2BZC" <paulb@midcoast.com.au>
 Organization:      Webster Medical Pty. Ltd.
         To:             avs@wow.net
         CC:            dontronics.com

Hello Michael/ Miki.

  Second try at this message; first crashed!  Noted Don has already referred you to "read the instructions"!

> I am very interested in the Pic16f84 Programming

  Aren't we all!

>  I was presented recently with a special gift from my Mom, one of
> those Pickaxe-A kits from Dontronics.

  My version of it doesn't say "-A" on the end.  Apparently a DT-001K plus a DT-101K (kit).  A really great present anyway!

> I understand that this module when completed can do various things,
> what I am most interested in at this moment is just to program the
> pic16f84.

  Well, I think you really mean to program it with your code *and run* that code, so you really *do* have to build it all up.

> Can anyone advise on how to go about the basic assembly, like what
> parts to use?  The kit includes two pc. boards, one DT001 rev. C and a
> smaller board DT-101 rev. A  plus multiple parts.

  Build everything on the DT-001.  Some people suggest using a socket for the 7407 in case you "zap" it, but I reckon you're more likely to "zap" the printer port first.  Therefore you should use a printer port card rather than the one built into the motherboard.  I haven't zapped one yet, (using a monochrome card to run my ATMEL AVR-1 programmer at present actually) but just making recommendations for safety.

  If you use sockets, use "machined--pin" ones.  I have some neat ones at present which have no insulator part!  You *must* of course use one of these for the "programming" socket on the DT-001, and if you expect to use it a lot, get a ZIF socket which you plug *into* the other, as per the instructions.  Actually, you probably won't want to use that socket *at all* for the present.  Read on.

> I was made to understand I do not have to use all these parts if I am
> just concentrating on the 16f84 at the moment,

  I think you do, according to the file I am reading for the "pickaxe". You really *don't* want to be plugging the PIC into and out of the programming socket and you don't really have any other board to use it in properly (with the crystal, 5V power, bypass caps etc.).

  With it soldered into the DT-101 (I really suggest you *don't* socket it, it makes it messy and bulky and sockets are really a potential source of bad connections) and the 4PDT switch fitted, you can load the DT-101 into the SIMM socket on the DT-001, program it and try out your program just by flipping switches.  That's really what it's all about.

> I don't want to go about using the wrong parts and damage the chips
> etc.

  Follow the instructions, I doubt there's *much* you can do wrong.  Do the stepwise tests on the programmer board as you put the active components in.  Then put in the bare DT-101 board and test voltages on it.  Then assemble it.  Check orientation of all chips many times.  I don't think the transistors were included in the kit; take note that the popular American ones may be different; it's all in the instructions!

  Then try it out.  If there's a part the necessity for which you still are wondering about, ask me and/ or Don.  (I may answer faster, but then again I may not.  I'm usually noisier though! ;-)

  I actually suggest you solder the MAX-232 into the DT-001 too.  It allows you to make a program flash the TX LEDs as your first exercise.You may at a later stage want to put a MAX-232 on the DT-101 and use it on its own, but by then you'll be looking at buying more DT-101s, MAX-232s etc.

  By the way, a little grouch of mine regarding a spelling/ terminology mistake I note in some of Don's notes; DB-9 connectors don't exist! He's been a bit subtle on the circuit diagram by calling it just a "D-9"; it's really a DE-9.
        Paul B.

Subject:     Feedback
   Date:     Wed, 30 Sep 1998 21:29:14 -0400
   From:     "Larry Teague" <ldteague@rica.net>
     To:     <dontronics.com>


I have the DT001 and DT101.  After some initial 'didn't read the instructions'
problems, everything worked fine.  Suddenly, I couldn't program my DT101; always
got a verify error when I tried.  I had connected two 9v batteries in series per
your suggestion and had continued to use them.  It turns out that there is no
indication that the batteries have reached the end of their useful programming
life.  The LEDs on the DT001 are just as bright as ever but there isn't
sufficient voltage to program the PIC.

Larry Teague

> OK, I have a DT001 ready to go. (no RS232 - minimum config to start)
> OK, I have a DT101 ready to go, (ditto)
> OK, I hae my programmer ready to go
> After lots of reading, the way I see it......
> Plug the DT101 into the #1 SimmSocket on the DT001.  Switch to "load"
> and program it, then switch to "run" to run it.
> Questions:
> 1       How do I know whether I'm programming/running the DT101 16F84, or the
> DT001 16F84?

The dt001 board is only a programmer and simmstick platform, nothing

Thi is what it says at:
You still having problems getting your DT001 to work?
Section Isolate!!!!

You can program an 84 chip in a DT101 board in slot 1 with the switch in
the correct position, or you can program it in the
ZIF socket position on the DT001 board. The switch isn't used if you
have the micro in the ZIF socket position.

Now, can  you program a PIC16F84 on the dt001 board, that is, with no
simmstick installed?
To do this, you can solder an 18 pin machine pin socket to the dt001
board to try.
See: hints.html for using machine pin sockets and later conveting to ZIF

If all of this fails, try another printer port, or another computer
system just to make sure of your fault finding. It only takes a blob
of  solder or a track fault on the boards to stop it all working.

More Questions, more answers:

> OK, I have a DT001 ready to go. (no RS232 - minimum config to start)
> OK, I have a DT101 ready to go, (ditto)
> OK, I hae my programmer ready to go
> After lots of reading, the way I see it......
> Plug the DT101 into the #1 SimmSocket on the DT001.  Switch to "load"
> and program it, then switch to "run" to run it.
> Questions:
> 1       How do I know whether I'm programming/running the DT101 16F84, or the
> DT001 16F84?

The dt001 board is only a programmer and simmstick platform, nothing else.

> 2       Do I have to have a 16F84 plugged into the DT001 anyway, or am I
> programmin/running the one on the DT101?
>         (I have a suspicion that the DT001 16F84 is actually required to
> program the DT101.  A driver, so to speak.  Yes/No)

No, as above. The printer port does all the work along with the 7407 and power switching circuit.

> I understand the following:
> 3       I can plug the DT101 into the DT001 either via the SimmSocket direct,
> OR by soldering male pins into the DT101 behind the Simmsocket edge
> connector and plugging via the 30 pin female pins at the end of the
> DT001.

Yes, but it will only program in slot 1.

>         The advantage might be that I could (after programming) unplug the
> DT101 from the DT001 and then plug it into a solderless breadboard via
> the 30 male pins, picking up Pwr from the breadboard.  Yes/No?


> 4       Or... I can plug the DT101 into the DT001 via the SimmSocket direct,
> and then the DT001 via 30 pin male/female pins to the breadboard.
> Yes/No?

Whatever, it will only program in slot 1. you can make up an adapter if you like.
See: http://www.dontronics.com/dt003.html for a picture.

> 5       What's J2 and J15 for?  Can I use these to go across to a breadboard?
> Yes/No?

Yes. That's what they are designed for.

> 6       Either way, the DT101 can eventually end up on the bread board on it's
> own, then to a finished product (after programming on the DT001)
> Yes/No?


> 7       Basically I see the DT001 as a programmer.  I see the DT101 as a
> circuit board for a 16F84, providing Pwr, xtal, and other optional
> devices such as B/O Comms etc.  Yes/No?


> 8       The DT001 cannot run on it's own - it has no xtal! So... it must need
> a DT101 (or similar) Yes/No?


I know it can be a bit overbearing first time around, but once you get your first led flashing, it will all fall into place.

Cheers Don... 

Subject:              Re: Minimum required components on a DT-101?
 Resent-Date:              Mon, 21 Jun 1999 21:53:56 -0400
 Resent-From:             sisuser@
        Date:             Mon, 21 Jun 1999 21:53:17 -0400 (EDT)
        From:             Jeffrey D Spears <jspears@engin.umich.edu>
    Reply-To:             sisuser@
          To:             sisuser@

        Hi Jeremy. Did you get the pic running yet? If not, check to make sure the flags are set correctly. Particularly _XT_OSC.
It seems standard to have the default _RC_OSC which will not work with crystal operation.

        One other noteworthy item. On my DT-001 Rev C (just like yours) I ran into heartache and confusion until I removed the MAX232 from the thing. I now use the MAX232 on the simmstick which seems to work okay fine. Recommend if you decide to install one, take Mr. Tronics' advise and use a socket.
        These are pretty neat little contraptions. Well worth the
time and effort spent fooling around and figuring out.

Subject:              Re: Minimum required components on a DT-101?
 Resent-Date:             Mon, 21 Jun 1999 22:05:31 -0400
 Resent-From:             sisuser@
        Date:             Mon, 21 Jun 1999 19:04:53 -0700
        From:             Jeremy Elson <jelson@usc.edu>
    Reply-To:             sisuser@
          To:             sisuser@

Jeffrey D Spears writes:
>       Hi Jeremy. Did you get the pic running yet? If not, check
>to make sure the flags are set correctly. Particularly _XT_OSC.
>It seems standard to have the default _RC_OSC which will not work
>with crystal operation.

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!  I had put my DT 101 and 001 aside for a few days to work on some other projects, saddened by my failure to get it work, and hoping for some miracle such as the one you just performed.  I set the oscillator type to RC and the thing worked immediately.  I am still not sure of the meaning of the 4 other oscillator types or the fuses, but I'm sure I can find that by diving into the huge 16F84 documentation I downloaded from Microchip's web site.

Don, thank you for your fine products!  You might want to add this tip about the oscillator type to the page that describes how to put the DT101/001 together for newbies.

(AKA Mr. PIC! :-) )

Subject:       Re: PICs
        Date:  Sun, 24 Jan 1999 08:05:27 +1030
       From:   Ian Du Rieu <idurieu@LeonAudio.com.au>
Organization:  http://www.LeonAudio.com.au
         To:   Don McKenzie <dontronics.com>

I have a PIC project that's on it's own PCB, (not SIM Stick) I need to develop the software in the target PCB because it has 64 IO lines & talks to 16 other PICs. I want to use the load/run switch & don't want to be forced to unplug a "just programmed PIC" from the DT001 & plug it into the target system to test it.

What I did...
Mounted a PIC & xtal on a DT101 plugged into a DT001 (in the first slot so it can be programmed) Take a second DT101 PCB (plugged into the same DT001 board) & connect a ribbon cable to where the PIC goes on this PCB. There are no other components on this second DT101. Other end of ribbon goes to my target PCB where it connects to the socket that will house the PIC in the finished project.
The ribbon connects all data lines & gnd between the target PCB & the PIC on the DT101 in the DT001 programmer. It lets me use the "load/run" switch with a target PCB that isn't a SIM stick. Target board doesn't need anything special to achieve this functionality, unlike a target PCB that has to support "in circuit programming"

Subject:      RE: [Fwd: PICs]
Resent-Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 02:51:54 -0500
Resent-From: sisuser@
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 14:58:05 +1100
From: "Peter Homann" <peterh@adacel.com.au>

My set-up is slightly different but similar in concept.

I do a lot of my prototyping on those white matrix prototyping boards.  That way I don't need to use the soldering iron until the circuit is finalised and working.

I have my PIC in a DT101 board in the DT001 programmer board, and use a 1" prototype board as a header for my flying leads between the PIC processor and my target application on the matrix board.

For the flying leads I use 200mm jumper leads designed for use with the matrix boards. They have a moulded pin at each end, and are a perfect fit for the matrix board. I solder one end of each of these leads into the 1" prototyping board and the other end plugs into the matrix board wherever I need it to go.

I like the sound of Ian's jumper cable and will definitely use it once I've transitioned from the matrix board to a PCB.

Subject:              mod to DT001
        Date:              Sun, 18 Jun 2000 13:43:13 +0930
       From:              Ian Du Rieu <idurieu@LeonAudio.com.au>
 Organization:              http://www.LeonAudio.com.au

Hi Don,
I've got rid of the need to flick the DT001's load/run switch every time you burn a chip. The 4PDT switch has been replaced with a relay which is driven by Bojan's Picall software (ver 0.5b) The software does the load/run switching of the DT001.

I've attached a PDF of circuit & pcb. The 4PDT switch is removed & fitted to the new PCB along with a pair of
DPDT relays. (4PDT relays seem to have disappeared from the hobby shops) The PCB is connected to the DT001 via 12 short stiff wire links into the location where the 4PDT switch used to be.

There are only 3 other connections to be made via a piece of ribbon cable. They are Gnd, unregulated DC for the relays, and pin 7 of the DB25 for relay drive.

I use a 16VAC plugpack for the DT001 which gives me close enough to 24V at the filter cap which is ideal for driving the relays. The switch now selects between Run & Auto. Auto position does as described above. Run position prevents the burning of the chip as it is forced to stay in the run mode. A chip in the ZIF socket can now be burnt while another is running in
the 32 pin expansion socket.

Cheers, Ian Du Rieu
The Leon Audio Co
dt001mod.pdf   Note **** 25-Jun-2000 Schematic error: The +5V side of the 1K pullup on the relay drive transistor doesn't go to +5V as it should.

Subject:              Dontronics DT001 now supported by FlashPIC 16F87x etc Programmer
        Date:              Thu, 13 Jul 2000 14:11:16 +1200
       From:              "Bryan Rentoul" <bryan@conquestsys.com>

For those who are interested - FlashPIC Developer (see below) now supports the Dontronics DT001 SimmStick(tm) PIC Development system (see http://www.dontronics.com/dt001.html) Simply select your preferred hardware type from Options / Settings on the main menu.

Several enhancements have been made since version 3.10 was release June 9, 2000. We are now up to version 3.14 and there are plenty more ideas to come.

The Web site has seen large numbers of people visiting and downloading FlashPIC. Our thanks to those who have showed interest. As yet very few have supported our efforts by way of any payment. Whilst this makes our efforts and costs very hard to justify at this stage we are sure it will change in time. That's why we continue to put in hours and hours of effort. Please
support our efforts so we can continue with enhancements and support.

FlashPIC Developer (or 'FlashPIC') is fully functional Shareware and is
available from...
...full details about the program can be found therein.

Briefly - FlashPIC is a low cost development and learning aid aimed at hobbyists and students  taking a somewhat unique approach. FlashPIC sets about assisting new comers to electronics and PIC microcontrollers in general. Clear instructive details are given to assist novice enthusiasts and/or students to get a PIC chip programmed and running. This includes
sample code and circuit diagrams.

International Language Support - FlashPIC has "plug-in" support for multiple (human) languages. Currently, English and Brazilian Portuguese are available. We are looking for people willing to write simple translation files for languages such as German, French, Italian, Spanish etc. We're also interested to contact people willing to host language translated "mirrors"
of the FlashPIC Web site - in particular the documentation tree. Please see the Web site for details.

Kind Regards,
Bryan J. Rentoul
Progress Cyber Medix
TEL: +64 21 933 393
FAX: +64 21 377 393

Subject:                 DT106
        Date:              Fri, 06 Oct 2000 10:59:14 +0930
       From:              Ian Du Rieu   http://www.LeonAudio.com.auHi Don & Bojan,

Just discovered a gremlin with the DT106 & Picallw.
DT106 with 16F877 installed. Ribbon cable from DT106 to target PCB where it connects to to target PIC's socket.
Target is a 16F876, but the problem should still be there with an 877 target.
I'm using PicallW to drive the DT001/DT106 programmer.
I was getting program failures, mainly during the burning of the fuses, but also occasionally at the start of burning the main code.
What's happening is that the DT001/PicallW switches +5 on & off to the PIC several times during the burning process. My target board was powered up & was back-feeding volts to the PIC via various I/O lines & the clamp diodes, causing the PIC to misbehave. The fix was to set VPP & VPP1 to 7 with Negate checked. This keeps the PIC powered up all the time & the problem ceases to be.
The relay mod I did to the DT001 so that I don't have to flick the load/run switch at every burn works 100%. So it now takes just 1 key stroke on the IBM to reload the data file & burn the PIC :)

Subject:         More 3rd party software
   Date:         Thu, 9 Nov 2000 21:18:28 -0000
   From:        "James Kingdon" <james@kingdon5.freeserve.co.uk>
I maintain an opensource project for a PIC programming utility. One of my users recently contributed code to support your DT001 programmer. Since this may be of interest to your customers I thought you might want to add a link to the webpage, and you are welcome to do so if you wish. The page is http://www.kingdon5.freeserve.co.uk/jpp877/jpp877.html
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