Home  Products Prices Site Map Order Contact What's New Books Free Files Links FAQ
Dontronics Home Page PICEX Assembly Instructions.
Bottom of Page

PIGMY Boards: Sold out 4-Apr-99

For reference only.

These Instructions were written for the Revision A PIGMY Board and as I have just released Rev. B for general use, it needs a little updating for the PICEX and Counterfeit Basic Stamp installation, however as I feel both installations are fairly simple, I have dropped this to near the bottom of my priority list.

 You will find the MAX-232 to PICEX Chip connections in the pigmyasc.html and pigmy1.html files.

Assembling the PIGMY Printed Circuit Board as a PICEX Serial
Controller Network....

The BasicMicro-1 is covered in this article also.

My PIC16C84 "DT001" programmer connection is covered in this
article too.

                Before you assemble anything, READ THIS...

    There are 3 links on the component side of the board that must be
    installed if you wish to use this board for an 18 pin PIC chip.
    These are the 3 links that are inside the E1 outline. Just above
    E2. You may not be able to readily get hold of an 18 pin socket.
    You may have to cut down a larger socket, or perhaps a machine pin
    socket. If you wish to use this board for both 18 and 28 pin PIC
    chips, you may need to solder in machine pin strips to both E1 and
    E2 locations. Don't forget the 3 links.

    If you are assembling only a PICEX, a standard 28 pin socket can
    be installed into E1 and you can forget about these 3 links.

    If you are building this board up as a general purpose
    experimental and possible programming board, fit all sockets,
    links and all headers so that you can configure any and all
    options. Instructions on these options will be added to the end of
    this article as these circuits are developed and proven.

NODE is the PICEX board identification. Also known as the board number
or drop number.

This Node is burnt into the program of the PIC16C57-XT/P chip. It
can't be changed and is usually set by me as "DROP ZERO", however it
could be any number between 00 and FFHex. On request, I can make it
any number. If multiple boards are ordered together, these drops will
all be different.

PICEX on its own, that is, without driving heavy loads from the PICEX
power supply, will run from a 9 Volt battery for a reasonable time.

I have used Dick Smith Catalogue numbers as a reference only.

Required Components:

Plug-pack 9 to 12 volts AC or DC at 50ma to 100ma. The current
required to run the PICEX board is very small. If you need to run 8
relays off the same supply, a 1AMP Plug-pack can be used. Experienced
builders may prefer to use a suitable AC transformer. (DSE Cat M-2155
9.5VAC multi-tap @ 1A)

A "U" shape type heat sink to suit the regulator should be used if you
are running at more than about 250ma. This regulator is rated at 1.5

1 by PIGMY Printed Circuit Board.          ;Available from Don
1 by PIC16C57-XT Programmed PICEX Chip.    ;Available from Don
1 by MAX-232 RS-232 Level Converter.       ;Available from Don
1 by 4MHz Crystal in a small case.         ;Available from Don

Dick Smith also has both the MAX-232 and 4Mhz Crystal in his

Yes, it must be a 4Mhz crystal. This is the maximum clock frequency of
this version PIC chip and the software is designed for 9600 Baud.

1 by 7805         +5  Volt regulator in TO-220 case.
1 by Diode Bridge D1  WO2 or WO4 type.  (DSE Cat Z-3304)

1 by Capacitor    C1  1000uf Electrolytic @16 Volts. (PCB type mount.)
1 by Capacitor    C2  .01uf (or .1uf) Ceramic
1 by Capacitor    C3  .01uf (or .1uf) Ceramic
1 by Capacitor    C4  10uf Electrolytic (PCB mount.) or Tantalum @16 V
1 by Capacitor    C5  15pf Ceramic
1 by Capacitor    C7  15pf Ceramic
1 by Capacitor    C8  10uf Electrolytic (PCB mount.) or Tantalum @16 V
1 by Capacitor    C9  10uf Electrolytic (PCB mount.) or Tantalum @16 V
1 by Capacitor    C10 10uf Electrolytic (PCB mount.) or Tantalum @16 V
1 by Capacitor    C11 10uf Electrolytic (PCB mount.) or Tantalum @16 V
1 by Capacitor    C12 .01uf (or .1uf) Ceramic

(A total of 11 Caps, 6 of these are polarized.)

1 by Resistor     R2  4K7  .25 watt
1 by Resistor     R3  2M2  .25 watt
1 by Resistor     R4  2M2  .25 watt
1 by Resistor     R5  470K .25 watt
1 by Resistor     R7  330  .25 watt
1 by Resistor     R8  4K7  .25 watt
1 by Resistor     R9  330  .25 watt
1 by Resistor     R10 330  .25 watt
1 by Resistor     R11 100  .25 watt

(A total of 9 Resistors.)

1 by Transistor   Q1  BC558 Any PNP Small Signal Amp will do.
1 by DB-25 Female Solder Tail connector.
1 by 28 pin DIP socket. (for the PIC16C57-XT/P)
1 by 16 pin DIP socket. (for the MAX-232)
1 by 2 Post PCB mount screw terminal. 5mm or 5.08mm centres.
1 by 26 pin IDC type Male header. (2 by 13 pins) J1
1 by 34 pin IDC type Male header. (2 by 17 pins) J2
3 by 5mm LEDs.
1 by strip of single row male pins (6). (For LEDs)
3 by test links or shunts.              (For LEDs)
1 by Reset Button. Dick Smith Cat P-7570

These Reset buttons are available from many outlets. They have four
pins at .2" centres and have two sets of two common posts. Miniature 4
post "TACTILE" PCB mount buttons are also available, but the hole
centres are very different, however by straightening out the "bent"
pins and adjusting the pitch slightly these will fit the .2" centres
of the PICEX board.

Other items are required for various configurations of the PIGMY
board, however only the items mentioned above are needed for PICEX.

NOTE **** THREE circuit (not artwork) mistakes have been found so far,
plus one overlay text fault.

(1) LEDs drawn the wrong way in the circuit diagram. Sheet 1.

(2) Capacitors C6 and C7 labels reversed in the circuit diagram. The
    overlay is correct for both of these items. Sheet 1.

(3) Labels J1 and J2 missing on Sheet 2. J1 is the 26 pin header. J2
    is the 34 pin header.

(4) On the Overlay only, the text at Q1 "E B C" should read "C B E".
    The transistor orientation should be correct for most common

    Before going further I will mention the other components and what
    circuit they are used:

    Resistor/Capacitor clock instead of Crystal.
    J4 and J5 male pins and links.
    1 by Capacitor    C6 22pf Ceramic
    1 by Resistor     R6 4K7  .25 watt

    50/60hz INT for RTCC. (Not required for PICEX or BasicMicro-1)
    J3 male pins and link.
    1 by Resistor     R1  330K .25 watt
    1 by Diode        D2  1N4004

    PARALLAX Basic Stamp work-alike, BasicMicro-1.
    J7 A strip of 3 male pins for comms to IBM Compat. PC printer port.
    1 by Resistor     R8  4K7  .25 watt (and Local test on PICEX)
    1 by PIC16C56-XT  E2  Programmed Basic Stamp;Available PARALLAX INC.
    1 by 18 pin DIP socket to suit E2.
    1 by 93LC56       E3  EEPROM
    1 by 8 pin DIP socket to suit E3.

    IýC type comms.
    J10 3 pin header. Uses RA2 and RA3.

    Power out connections. (Possible power to relay board.)
    1 by 2 Post PCB mount screw terminal. 5mm or 5.08mm centres.
    Can also be used for +12 V POWER-IN to board. (Bridge not needed.)

    J11 10 pin IDC male Header.
    Programming connection for my DT001 programmer.

Before installing any components, you will need to use a file to bevel
a slight 45 degree angle along the DB-25 connector tracks so that the
DB-25 connector will push hard onto the board without damage. This may
need to be done on both sides of the board to ease this connector on.
Don't install this connector yet.


Several links must be installed on the component side of the board.

The component side of the board is the side that doesn't have the
tracks. It is the blank side of the board.

The other side is the solder side. All soldering is done on the solder
side of the board.

All components are fitted from the component side of the board.

If you have trouble understanding this, you may need assistance to
assemble this board.

I am very happy to assist on the phone if I can, but I can't build or
fault find to any great degree via a phone. I can assemble the board
for you, (at a price) if you wish.

The link shown between J12 and C1 is also a ground connection. I
suggest that when you install this, you leave a little slack so that a
logic probe, Multi-Meter, or clip can be easily connected for testing
and experimenting.

The link shown above the Reset button is a +5V connection. Leave a
little slack on this for the same reason. This saves me putting in
special GND and +5V posts as I have done with my previous projects.

Install the two links near R6. Install the two links that run near the
top of J11.

There is a link that runs from near J11 and C10 and a link below E3.
These don't need to be installed for PICEX. The first is used for the
J11 71/84 programming header, and the one near E3 for the PARALLAX
Basic Stamp work-alike circuit.

That's a total of six links that must be installed so far.

There is a link that connects pins 6 and 8 together of the DB-25
female connector. Another link must be installed after the DB-25
Connector is soldered in, but leave this link for now. It will connect
pins 6, 8, and 20 together on the DB-25 connector.

Three other configuration links can also be soldered in.

Crystal operation:
Solder a link at J4 between pins 2 and 3. That's the upper 2 pins.
Solder a link at J5 between pins 2 and 3. That's the upper 2 pins.

RTCC Normal operation:
Solder a link at J3 between pins 1 and 2. That's the 2 pins near the
7805 regulator.

That's a total of ten links that must be installed so far.

This doesn't include the link near E3, and the link near J11 to C10
that don't need to be installed.

Solder in your E1 28 pin socket, and the E4 16 pin socket.
Solder in Resistors R2, R3, R4, R5, R7, R8, ,R9, R10, and R11, a total
of nine resistors.

Solder in the Transistor Q1 BC558. Solder in Capacitors C1, C2, C3,
C4, C5, C7, C8 ,C9, C10, C11, and C12 That's 11 capacitors.

Watch out for the polarity of C1, C4, C8, C9, C10, and C11. These must
be soldered into the board the correct way around. The positive end of
the Caps is shown on the circuit overlay.

Solder in your 7805 regulator. This can be soldered in allowing for a
bolt and/or heat sink to be fitted at this position. Even if you don't
install a heatsink now, you may need one later on. I bolted a heatsink
to mine, soldered it in position, then removed it.

Solder in the Diode Bridge. The Positive leg is shown on the overlay.

Check the Reset button for pin identification. My artwork has the top
two pins connected together and the bottom two connected together.
Make sure that you solder this button in so that it operates

Solder in the 4Mhz crystal.

Install the three LEDs with the cathodes as shown on the overlay.

NOTE **** Yes, I have shown these LEDs the wrong way around in the
circuit dated 14-JUN-94. The overlay is correct. I will rectify this
in due course.

Install the J1 and J2 headers.

Install J6, J8, and J9 LED isolation headers, and the appropriate
shunts or links. These links are installed to allow the LEDs to be
used for power up diagnostics. If a low power application is required,
these links can be removed after final assembly and testing.

Install the POWER-IN PCB mount screw terminals.

Install the DB-25 Female connector and the link that goes between pin
6, 8, and pin 20 on the other side of the board. A hole is provided to
get this one link from one side of the board to the other.

Make sure that you solder every connection of the DB-25 on the solder
side of the board. This will strengthen the board to connector "mate"
so that plugs can be pushed and pulled without damage to the board or

And apart from the two chips, I think that's it.

               What you SHOULDN'T have installed is:

+12V Out terminals, E2, E3, J10, J11, J12, RX, a few odd resistors, a
diode, a cap, and 4 pads that don't seem to go anywhere.

These 4 pads will be used for 84 programming along with J11.
Two of these pads are right under R2. The other two are near J11. I
have made the 4 pads a black square on the overlay.

The resistor RX is only used for 20Mhz operation and can be ignored
for the PICEX circuit. If you needed it, the track would have to be
cut under RX and a 470 ohm resistor will be installed for RX.


Before you power up, check with your multi-meter (on ohms) that ground
and +5 volts are not shorted together on the printed circuit board.

Don't install the chips yet. Connect up your power-pack, transformer,
or +9 Volt Battery. As the circuit has a diode bridge at the input, it
doesn't matter which way around you connect the positive and negative

Power up the unit and check that the +5 Volts is there before
proceeding. This is verified by the Power LED being on. Check the
volts with your multi-meter. This should read from about 4.8 to 5.1
Volts. That's what you get on 7805 regulators now days. Usually around
4.82 Volts with no load.


All OK? POWER DOWN and install chip E1, the PIC16C57-XT/P.


Still not sure of pin 1 of the male headers and chips? This is marked
on the overlay. Have a look at the text "J1". Next to it is a square
pin surrounded by a box. This pin is pin 1. All pin 1's on the overlay
are square. This includes the chips. All pin 1's are square on the
solder side of the board, that is, on the artwork.

Power up again and check the +5 volts.

Connect a 4K7 resistor between ground and RA0 of the circuit. The
easiest way of doing this is use an IC type clip lead connected from
the left hand end of resistor R8 to the ground strap that you left a
bit of slack in.

R8 is only used for this test mode on PICEX, but used for the EEPROM
circuit on the Basic Stamp work-alike.

If you never use the board as a Stamp work-alike then you could use
header J7 and a test link for a permanent "Test Connection". J7 pin 1
is ground. Pin 2 would need to be isolated with two track cuts and one
jumper, then the left hand end of R8 will need to be jumpered to pin 2
of J7. The shorting link could then be inserted for Test, then
removed, or positioned on pin 1 only for normal operation.

This signal, (RA0) is normally used for the serial out line. When
first powered up or reset, this pin is set to input and tested for the
4K7 resistor to ground. If the resistor is installed, the PICEX is
forced into the diagnostic routines. It doesn't matter if the MAX-232
is installed or not for this test.

If all is well, the L2 and L3 LEDs should be flashing off and on at a
1 cycle per second rate. These LEDs are actually doing a binary count
in the range of 0 through to 3, repeated over and over until you
remove the 4K7 resistor. During this time, all B and C ports are set
to low outputs and each output pulses high in turn for 1 second. This
is in sync with the L2 and L3 LEDs.

If you use one or two of my relay boards as LED monitors, you will see
this activity on these two ports. This diagnostic is a 16 cycle


If you do connect a relay board, make sure that you line up the flat
ribbon cable correctly. If you lay out the boards with the J1 headers
of each board nearest each other and connect the cable, you will have
a short between +5V and ground. I designed the pinout this way so that
any incorrect connection would load the power supply, not the PIC
chip. I don't want you to damage your PIC chip!

You will need a twist in the cable, or lay the boards out in such a
way that you don't have to twist the cable, such as running the cable
across or under one board.

           Check the ASCII Circuits for an Overlay of this.

I have noticed that if I use a 9V battery power supply, and the
MAX-232 isn't installed, I don't need a 4K7 resistor to force the
power up diags.

If the unit has passed this test, you are almost home. You can now
install the MAX-232 chip into the E4 socket before powering up again.

When the resistor is removed, PICEX restarts to normal operation and
the LED flashing routines stop.

The MAX-232 has 400K pullup resistors on the TTL inputs, so this
overcomes the possibility of a false power up diagnostic running.

Connect a DB-25 male to DB-25 female cable to the PICEX female
connector. Connect this cable to the serial port of your PC. If you
have a DB-9 male serial connector, a standard DB-9 female to DB-25
male adapter will be needed.

Power up your PICEX board and run a comms program on your PC. You must
set the comms program up as follows:

Baud rate: 9600, 8 Data bits, No Parity, and 1 stop bit.

Set Echo on. This will show all characters that you have typed.

To test the serial comms link TYPE ZZZZZZ. (6 Z's). You should get
back from PICEX the same 6 Z's.

The screen should look like this:


Unless a board is addressed, the message string that you send out is
simply returned. You should read through PICEX.CMD for more
information on PICEX commands.

To further test a single board, I have another diagnostic that
requires 8 by 10K resistors wired up as follows:

RB0 to RC0 via a 10K, RB1 to RC1 via a 10K, etc, right up to RB7 to
RC7 via a 10K resistor. This wiring can be done on the top of a 26 pin
header connected to J1 or a 34 pin header connected to J2.

When this loopback arrangement is fitted, the "L" Command can be used
as follows:

"L" The Loopback Command:

This test was designed only for single unit assembly and testing on
the workbench. A network system will give weird errors, so only use it
for single unit testing.

The "L" command can get one of 2 answers from a live unit.

(1) LLLLLL 00>ERR   ;Loopback plug not fitted or hardware fault exists.
(2) LLLLLL 00>AOK   ;Unit 00 Tested OK.

Followed by this response from the active Node:

PICEX Version 1.0 by Don McKenzie
P.O. Box 595 Tullamarine 3043
Australia Phone (03)9-338-6286
Updated 12-Jul-94(c)

During this test, the RA2 and RA3 LEDs are toggled. The test sequence
is as follows:

LED RA2 OFF, LED RA3 OFF. These are cleared on entry to this test.

1 Second delay.
Test 1. Tests done with Port B as Output, and Port C as Input.

1 Second delay.
Test 2. Tests done with Port B as Input, and Port C as Output.

1 Second delay.
LED RA2 OFF, LED RA3 OFF. This unit passed the Loopback test.

If at any time an error is detected, a 1 second delay is followed by
LED RA2 ON, and RA3 ON.

Good test, both LEDs are turned off.
Bad test, both LEDs remain on.

The LEDs can be cleared very easily with a 'M'aster reset or Reset
button. 00MRES (See PICEX.CMD)

Any one into PIC design can set up a very simple stand alone tester
using a PIGMY board that outputs the 'L'oopback test (6 times 'L')
when Reset is pressed and software debounced. Results will be shown on
the LEDs of the unit under test.

The unit can now be tested with the full set of Commands as detailed

It is possible to use a pin as both an input and an output. As an
example, an LCD display can be driven off the same pins that are used
for a keyboard input.

           Check the ASCII Circuits for an Overlay of this.

This will allow you to drive the port pin either high or low without
overloading the PIC chip, even when a switch is pressed.


To network a system of PICEX boards, all you need is the appropriate
daisy chained 3 wire circuit wired to DB-25 connectors. This is hooked
up as follows:

           Check the ASCII Circuits for an Overlay of this.


Constructive Criticism...

Yes, someone actually has given me feedback. It's the only way I can
improve my products beyond my own horizons.

My next version PIGMY board will have a Link option for "Local Test
Diagnostics". This is very easy to add. Probably to the left of R8.
The D2 diode hole sizes need to be enlarged slightly. The PCB mount
screw terminal holes need to be reduced in size.

The text that was used on my board was "fiddled  with" by my board
manufacturer. You will notice that the letter "I" almost disappears at
the three spots that it is found on the board.

Header J12 is now obsolete. Was to be used for my 84 programmer.

If you have any thoughts or ideas that may enhance any future PIGMY
boards, I would be very happy to look at them.

PARALLAX Basic Stamp work-alike, BasicMicro-1.

Required Components...
J7 A strip of 3 male pins for comms to IBM Compatible PC printer port.
1 by Resistor     R8  4K7 .25 watt   (Also used for Local Test on PICEX.)
1 by PIC16C56-XT  E2  Programmed Basic Stamp  ;Available PARALLAX INC.
1 by 18 pin DIP socket to suit E2.
1 by 93LC56       E3  MicroChip EEPROM
1 by 8 pin DIP socket to suit E3.

For the BasicMicro-1 to work, you must have to 3 links installed just
above E2. This connects 3 signals to the 18 pin socket.

You must install the link just below E3.

J4 and J5 must be set for crystal operation, which is the same as
PICEX. J3, the RTCC link must be set for normal operation, which is
also the same as PICEX.

Links J6, J8, and J9 should be removed for normal BasicMicro-1
operation. I like to at least keep the Power LED on for benchwork

All of the above "Required Components" should be fitted.

What You Don't Need...

You must remove the MAX-232 if it is fitted, and Caps C8, 9, 10, and
11 do not need to be fitted. If they are installed, it doesn't matter
as they don't connect to anything if the MAX-232 isn't present.

You don't use the DB-25 Connector for the BasicMicro-1 circuit. Once
again, it doesn't matter if it is installed.

As the Basic Stamp Interpreter is a PIC16C56-XT, it has only 4 bits in
Port A and 8 bits of Port B. All of the Port A bits are used for E3,
the serial EEPROM and J7, the communications header.

This means that only Port B is available for the user. The Port B
pinout can be found on both J1 and J2.

PARALLAX supplies a Basic Stamp Chipset that has the following

2 by PIC16C56-XT programmed with the Basic Stamp interpreter.
2 by 93LC56 Serial EEPROM.
2 by 4Mhz Resonators.

This Chipset allows you to build up two units, that is if you have
your own boards, which is where I come in. The PIGMY board of course
is designed with the Basic Stamp in mind, along with a lot of other
ideas and circuits.

The resonator used and supplied by PARALLAX is a 3 pin device. The
third or inner leg connects to ground. I have added one extra hole to
my board at this position. You can use a 4Mhz crystal or the 4Mhz
resonator, however if the resonator is used, a link needs to be
connected between the extra leg and ground. This is easily added by
strapping out the C6 capacitor position.

The two 15pf Caps are fitted inside the Resonator case so don't
install these external capacitors if you fit the Resonator.

BasicMicro-1... Let's Fire it up.....

When my first Stamp Development package and Chipset arrived, I grabbed
one of my boards that I had previously installed all of the options,
and removed the PIC chip, the MAX-232 and the three LED monitor
headers. You can leave these headers in, but of course the circuit
will use a lot of unnecessary power. I left the 4Mhz crystal

I installed the new Basic Interpreter chip and the 93LC56 EEPROM. This
took all of about half a minute.

The communication cable supplied with the development kit has a DB-25
Male connector one end for connection to a parallel port and a 3 pin
female header socket on the other.

NOTE ****  My Stamp disk has the connections for making this simple

           One user recently rang me and said that he couldn't get the
           BasicMicro-1 to load until he shortened his cable from three
           feet, down to 6 inches. I've only heard of this once, but I
           suspect it is the drive capacity of some printer ports. You
           shouldn't need to do this but keep it in mind when your
           BasicMicro-1 doesn't load.

In fact, if you get the Dick Smith part number P2733 Header pin & plug
3-way SIL .1" @ $1.15, this will be ideal for the BasicMicro-1 end of
your cable. The other end is a simple DB-25 male connector and
suitable cover.

I connected up the cable and dialed up a demo program and loaded it to
my new BasicMicro-1. Not much happened. I guess I really need some
LEDs to write something to, so watching out for pin 1 connection, I
hooked up one of my RELAY8 boards as a LED monitor.


I then wrote the following program:

START:                  'HOOK UP MY RELAY8 BOARD.
FOR B2 = 0 TO 7         'COUNT UP TO 8
HIGH B2                 'LIGHT UP ONE ONLY
PAUSE 1000              'DELAY 1 SECOND
NEXT B2                 'SHIFT THE "ON"  LED TO THE RIGHT
LOW 0       '
LOW 1       '    PIGMY BasicMicro-1 TEST PROGRAM by Don McKENZIE
LOW 2       '          P.O. Box 595 Tullamarine 3043
LOW 3       '                     AUSTRALIA
LOW 4       '
LOW 5       '  19-Jul-94
LOW 6       '
LOW 7       '
RETURN      '

And it worked fine. A single LED on, and shifting to the right at a
one cycle per second rate.

Disconnect the communications cable and it still works.
Power down and back up. It still works.
I then removed the EEPROM and replaced it again. Yes, it still worked.
Hey!, I have a Basic Stamp. No, I have a BasicMicro-1 ...

It must have taken all of 20 minutes to get a running Demo program
from when I first opened the package. It took longer to write this
text and buzz out the cable.

If you "REM" out line 3 with a "'" and UN-REM line 4, the LED will
move in the opposite direction

Programming the PIC16C84.....

The EEPROM used in the '84' makes it a very interesting device indeed.
An instant development system.

Headers J11, and resistor R11 (100 Ohms) have been added to the PIGMY
board for my DT001 Programmer.

The MCLR series resistor R11 had to be added to the original circuit
and can be ignored at this stage. (No change).

This is what you will need to do to allow a programmer to be connected
to your PIGMY board.

Install the link near J11 pin 9 that runs down near C10.

Header J11 (10 pin) can be soldered in.

I put the J12 header on the board for +5V isolation, however practical
experience has shown that other methods are required. This is now
detailed in my DT001.html file. Header J12 is now unused.

A track cut must be done on the solder side of the board near R2.
There are 2 holes not used under R2. You will see a small "V" next to
the track that needs to be cut. Aren't I kind?

An insulated  jumper must be connected between pin 1 of J11 and the
hole that is nearest pin 1 of the PIC larger socket. It actually
connects to pin 2 (PICVDD). This jumper can be done on either side of
the board, but if you choose to jumper it on the component side of the
board, you may have to remove, and replace R2 if it is already

Another jumper can be run from the other unused hole under R2 to the
hole nearest pin 2 of header J11.

A Test link or shunt can then be connected between pins 1 and 2 of J11
to restore the circuit back to normal.

Three more Test links can now be used to connect J11 pins 3 to 4, 5 to
6, and 7 to 8. You can then cut the tracks under these headers. Pins 9
and 10 are ground pins and only used to get the ground signal to the
programmer, so they don't need isolation and linking like the others.

After doing all of this track cutting, jumpering and linking, you
should have the same circuit that you started with, but with 4 extra
links installed.

The programmer board has a 10 pin header cables that connects to J11.

Of course, you only need to do all of this extra work to one board, as
you would only ever need one programmer or development board.

To program an 84 in a PIGMY board, remove the 4 links on J11 and plug
in the 10 pin header flat ribbon cable from your DT001 programmer.
Both power legs of the PIGMY board, and any I/O boards must be
isolated during programming. This is done with a double pole switch in
the power line to both the PIGMY board, and any I/O board.

To return the circuit to normal, remove the power isolation switch and
the 10 pin crimp header, and replace the 4 links on J11.

Use your DT001 programmer board to program an 84 "In-Circuit" with
the supplied walking LED test program. Both the MicroChip and Parallax
versions of source code are on this disk.

Don't confuse the above PICEX power up diagnostic test procedures with
84 programming. PICEX is a PIC16C57/XT programmed by me to certain
specifications for a single application.

An 84 is considered blank when you get it and must be programmed
before it can do anything.
What's Really HOT at Dontronics? 
Don's Download Dungeon
Home  Products Prices Site Map Order Contact What's New Books Free Files Links FAQ

Dontronics Home Page

Copyright © 1996-99 Dontronics
Top of Page